From A to Zurich
Consistently ranked among the world’s most livable cities, Zürich — the petite metropolis with just over 420,000 residents — scores top marks every time. What makes this small city so grand? We set out to uncover its secret …
T e x t
JÖRG BERTRAM
The Park Hyatt Zürich, with its floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows,
is just minutes from Lake Zürich.
Step outside the hotel and stroll down to the lake — or perhaps across to the iconic Bahnhofstrasse? Whichever you choose, when staying at the Park Hyatt Zürich, nothing is ever more than a few minutes’ walk away: from sightseeing gems to luxury shopping hotspots. Even business travelers find themselves ideally placed, as the hotel, with its iconic cube-like glass façade, is nestled right in the heart of Zürich’s banking and business district. Perfect conditions for a stay in a city that promises the vastness of the world in a beautifully compact format. But first — to the parking garage, a surprising first stop in a city famous for being best explored on foot or by “Velo,” the Swiss term of endearment for bicycles. Yet we’re not talking about any parking garage — we’re talking about the “Parkhuus,” the gourmet restaurant of Park Hyatt Zürich. Its name honors the old city garage that once stood here until 2004, now replaced by a space where all senses are indulged, from the lavish breakfast to the lunch favored by locals and guests alike, and the evening’s fine dégustation menus crafted by chef Timotej Muzila. The Slovak-born chef, who journeyed through Greece and Italy before
Left: Artful collection: Over 90 works of Modern and Contemporary
art enhancing Park Hyatt Zürich ambiance.
Right: The Onyx Bar at Park Hyatt Zürich is a favorite
meeting spot for both guests and locals.
Favorite summer spot: the Onyx Terrace.
settling in Switzerland, is renowned for his rich flavors and masterful blend of regional and cosmopolitan cuisine. Dishes like tender veal cheeks with lingonberries, purée, and truffle, or pea-miso cream with scallops, sugar snaps, and mint, grace the elegantly set tables. And the desserts? Utterly irresistible — like Muzila’s dreamy creation of goat’s milk, milk chocolate, and orange-infused puff pastry. Which brings us straight to Zürich’s undeniable love affair with dolce vita. The city may be famed for its chocolate, but it’s also home to an extraordinary number of world-class patisseries and confiseries. If you’ve saved room after your Parkhuus feast, make a beeline to Confiserie Sprüngli, just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. Opened in 1859 at Paradeplatz, Sprüngli still handcrafts its legendary Luxemburgerli macarons, pralines, and cakes. Insider tip: Don’t miss the daily fresh “Truffe du Jour” — made with fresh cream ganache, rhubarb jelly center, and an indulgent 29mm diameter. Thus fortified, head across Paradeplatz to the world-famous Bahnhofstrasse — once so pristine that James Joyce, Zürich’s most illustrious flâneur, declared one could eat soup spilled on the pavement without a spoon
Left: Private boats with views of the Grossmünster: a common sight in lakeside Zürich
Right: Zürich’s Bahnhofstrasse ranks among the world’s most exclusive shopping avenues.
Whether or not that holds true, your eyes will be far too busy admiring the glittering displays of luxury boutiques and designer creations to bother checking the ground. For those inspired to follow in Joyce’s footsteps — including visiting his former home and favorite café — guided tours organized by the James Joyce Foundation are available (sign-ups at www.jamesjoycefoundation.ch). Craving a splash instead? You’re in the right place. No other world city is so intimately entwined with water. After work, it’s not unusual to see relaxed Zürich locals floating down the Limmat River, beer in one hand, waterproofed briefcase in the other. Equally charming is the morning ritual of residents strolling down to Lake Zürich in bathrobes for a refreshing dip.
Curtain up: Zürich’s grand Opera House, opened in 1891,
welcomes 1,200 culture lovers.
Left: Reaching for the sky: the Uetliberg is one of Zürich’s most beloved scenic escapes.
Right: Summertime, and the living is easy — especially when you spend it by the water, Zürich-style
If you’re tempted, it’s just a 250-meter stroll from the Park Hyatt to the waterfront — where the hotel’s concierge can also organize private yoga sessions. Zürich’s beloved “Badis” — public river and lakeside baths — remain open until late and invite both swimming and sunset lounging right in the heart of the city. For a change of scenery, take the Uetliberg railway up to the 871-meter-high Uetliberg mountain for breathtaking 360° views over Zürich, the lake, and the distant Alps. In late autumn and early winter, the mountain becomes a secret paradise when thick fog blankets the city below and sunlit peaks rise like islands from a sea of clouds. But for now, it’s time to savor the golden Zürich summer: perhaps with a picnic in the gardens of the Rietberg Museum, known for its treasures of non-European art and its gourmet picnic baskets (order three days in advance at www.rietberg.ch). Or lose yourself in the charming old town with its churches, guild houses, and picturesque squares.
Among the city’s must-sees: the twin towers of Grossmünster, Zürich’s signature skyline silhouette, featuring stained-glass windows by Sigmar Polke and Augusto Giacometti. Speaking of Giacometti — not far from the Grossmünster, he also designed the enchanting “Blüemlihalle” in the entrance of Zürich’s inner-city police station, now considered the most beautiful police station in the world. Wander across the Limmat into Niederdorf, lovingly dubbed the “Dörfli” (little village) by locals, with its narrow, car-free lanes, artisan workshops, and cozy taverns. Back across the Rathausbrücke, you’ll find the splendid Augustinergasse, where colorful facades and intricate bay windows once allowed discreet peeks onto the lively street scenes below. In Zürich, it’s not only about seeing — but being seen. The city’s countless theaters, concert halls, and jazz clubs hold an esteemed place in society, and new productions are the talk of the town. For a truly grand experience, visit the Zürich Opera House — opened in 1891, its 1,200 seats create an atmosphere as majestic as Berlin’s Staatsoper, despite the city’s much smaller size. As the locals proudly say: “Züri isch nöd gross, aber es passiert trotzdem alles do.”
(Zürich isn’t big — but everything happens here.)
