Openings
One thing never changes in Vienna: the fact that everything is constantly changing. There’s always something new, especially in the culinary scene. These new openings have particularly caught our attention:.
Text – Florian Holzer
Zum Schwarzen Kameel Beletage.
Top chef Werner Pichlmaier celebrates an unpretentious cuisine at the highest level.
ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL BELETAGE
1010 Vienna, Bognergasse 5/1st Floor
tel.: +43 (0)1 533 81 25-11
Tue–Sat 12–2:30 pm, 5:30–12 am
schwarzeskameel.at
Zum Schwarzen Kameel is one of the few establishments in Vienna that can be truly called a “classic.” This status stems not only from its undeniably historic founding year of 1618 but also from its consistently well-maintained Viennese cuisine, impeccable service, and its Art Nouveau interior from 1901. Designed with lamps from the Wiener Werkstätten, intricate wood inlays on room dividers, frescoes by Karl Mayreder, and the iconic wall tiles that define the unique Kameel atmosphere, the interior is unmistakable. While it may seem impossible to replicate, this ensemble has now been faithfully recreated on the first floor, formerly used as an event space, giving rise to the new restaurant “Beletage.” It’s hard to believe that this restaurant hasn’t existed for 120 years; the interior feels naturally evolved and entirely authentic.However, patron Peter Friese has taken a different approach with the menu for his new showpiece. While the Kameel classics, such as the melt-in-your-mouth ham prepared using a secret recipe, veal goulash, Riesling tripe, or pike dumplings, remain, they are now enhanced with a touch of haute cuisine. Chef Werner Pichlmaier has also introduced a contemporary menu focused
on vegetables and seasonality. Choosing between the traditional boiled beef with bone marrow bread and classic side dishes or the pink-roasted venison fillet with mushrooms, elderberries, and an inspiring curry twist is no easy task.
1180 Vienna, Kutschkermarkt 11 & 48,
tel.: +43 (0)664 996 56 486, Mon–Fri 12–10 pm,
Sat 9:30 am–10 pm, paulundworthmann.at
Returning to the market theme, this time it’s a decades-old favorite that has experienced a renaissance in recent years. The previously modest street market in Vienna’s upscale Währing district was revitalized when Irene Pöhl, one of the stall operators, focused on premium delicacies that were rarely found at Viennese markets and opened a small snack stand. Next came fish vendor Suat Takan with his cheerful fish snack bar, followed by Vienna’s best-stocked butcher, Tanis, and many more. The small suburban market transformed into a lively gourmet hotspot. When Pöhl’s successors decided to concentrate solely on fine foods, Suat Takan took the opportunity to revamp and expand his fish snack bar a few meters away. This left two charming snack stands in the heart of the bustling market. Gastro-consultant and bar specialist Paul Rittenauer and his partner, investor David Worthmann, seized the opportunity, combining the stands into an ensemble. One stand serves cocktails, aperitivos, and the market staple Prosecco, while the larger stand features a mini-kitchen offering modern, inventive market cuisine. Dishes include carrot soup with Madras curry and Argentine shrimp, clams with pork neck, or raw rainbow trout in buttermilk marinade with smoked olive oil—a market worth visiting even if you’re not shopping
das weinberg
1180 Vienna, Thimiggasse 11, tel.: +43 (0) 664 439 08 37,
Mon, Thu 5–11 pm, Fri, Sat 12–11:30 pm
dasweinberg.at
When the gourmet pub Freyenstein opened in a rustic Gersthof pub in 2008, the culinary scene in the suburbs was still underdeveloped. Sixteen years later, Währing has become one of Vienna’s notable culinary destinations. When Freyenstein closed in January, interior designer Sandra Apflauer and restaurateur Marcus Doller (along with their dog Shiva, who serves as an unofficial hostess) saw an opportunity and transformed the space. After three months of renovations, they modernized the rustic building, expanded the garden pavilion for events, and brought on experienced chefs Sven Wenig and Alexander Mark — one a fine gourmet chef, the other a fan of reinvented traditional cuisine. The menu features classic Viennese dishes with a creative twist, such as beluga lentils with pastrami and balsamic vinegar or a delicious pea gazpacho with fluffy cheese dumplings. Main courses come in two sizes, allowing individual guests to sample different dishes or encouraging group sharing. Highlights include veal heart stew with cured egg yolk and curd dumplings, and ovenroasted crispy pork with bacon cabbage salad and pretzel dumpling soufflé
T’AVERNA
1080 Vienna, Albertgasse 49, tel.: +43 (0) 448 00 00
Sun, Tue–Thu 4 pm–12 am, Fri, Sat 4 pm–1 am
t-averna.bar
Andreas Flatscher is well-known in Vienna’s restaurant scene. After twelve successful years with his beer tavern „Wäscherei,“ he opened
„Flatscher’s,“ Vienna’s first American-style steakhouse. A bistro and a snack bar with an elaborate concept followed, though the latter wasn’t as successful. Flatscher later sold everything and moved to the countryside, running a unique food truck in Retz for a few years. Now he’s back in his former „Wäscherei,“ transformed into the Italian-American grill bar „T’Averna.“ Why T’Averna? Because Flatscher loves Sicilian Amaro, offering more varieties of Averna cocktails here than anywhere else in Vienna. He also fell in love with Trieste’s hearty „Cichetti,“ small, flavorful snacks like mortadella, prosciutto, nduja, and salsiccia served on bread—perfect with a glass of beer (Stella Artois, served from the tap without carbonation pressure) or an aperitivo drink. The rest of the concept feels distinctly American, inspired by immigrant locales in Little Italy, Coney Island, and Queens. Frank Sinatra tunes set the mood, waiters bustle between the restaurant and bar, and the menu features steak, spaghetti carbonara, „Pesce alla Nonna,“ and „Cioppina,“ a seafood stew
from Italian fishermen in San Francisco.
MARKTEREI
1090 Vienna, Severingasse 7
Fri 2–9 pm, Sat 9 am–6 pm
markterei.at
What so-called „foodies“ have long known reached mainstream society after the millennium: markets are among the liveliest, most interesting, and delicious places in any city. Against this backdrop, entrepreneur Thomas de Martin launched his „Markterei“ in 2015—a pop-up delicatessen market in unique locations, such as an old post office, where customers could purchase directly from passionate producers and learn about their products. There was always a party vibe, thanks to street food and DJs. After searching for a new location for several years, de Martin and his team found something sensational: the former hydraulic engineering lab of the Technical University, a vast hall where wave and flow behavior were once simulated. Although the generators and tanks are gone, the hall retains its fascinating techno atmosphere. Now, every weekend, visitors can find hand-crafted craft beers, Viennese urban honey, traditionally baked sourdough bread, and even sea bass and shrimp farmed in Styria. Shopping here is an event, not only because of the casual snacks, drinks, and the usual Markterei day-party vibe but because the immediate experience of these extraordinary delicacies leaves a lasting impression.
TAQUERIA LA VENTANA
1020 Vienna, Ferdinandstraße 2/1/4, Wed–Sat 5–11 pm
laventana.at
The taco trend in Vienna has recently taken off, and one of the standout figures is Georg Schmidgruber, a
marketing manager in the software industry. During the COVID lockdowns, he had the original idea of promoting and lowering homemade, delicious tacos from his window via Instagram—payment was voluntary, with proceeds donated, and the name „Taqueria La Ventana“ („The Window“) was a natural fit. Schmidgruber later made appearances at various summer pop-ups before deciding to open a permanent location in the highly desirable Praterstraße area. He acquired a small pizzeria, imported corn and a corn dough mill from Mexico, and began making tortillas using the traditional „nixtamalization“ method—soaking corn kernels overnight in lime water for better nutrient absorption and taste. The fillings are equally impressive: „Lengua“ (braised beef tongue with onion and coriander), „Al Pastor“ (chili-marinated pork belly from Waldviertel cooked on a Mexican „Trompo“ grill), and „Cochinita Pibil“ (Achiote-marinated vegan meat with red onions). The divine sauces are homemade, self-serve, with beers chilled in a fridge and Frozen Margaritas served street-food style from a slush machine. Reservations aren’t available, but waiting in line is part of the fun.
