T e x t
IRMIE SCHÜCH-SCHAMBUREK
P h o t o s
CARTIER
“This place is unique: Here, craftsmanship is preserved and passed on—often at risk of being forgotten or rarely practiced—in a way that leaves room for innovation while serving as a boundless source of inspiration for the Maison’s creativity. We firmly believe that this dialogue between tradition and modernity allows the craft to endure over time, remaining a living cultural heritage,” explains Karim Drici, Cartier’s Manufacture Director.
Preserving and passing on the valuable savoir-faire of craftsmanship is a commitment the French luxury brand holds dear. These rare skills, often transmitted orally from one generation to the next, risk being lost over time. With the Maison des Métiers d’Art, a restored 17th century farmhouse in the Bernese style, Cartier established a creative hub ten years ago that bridges traditional craftsmanship and modern manufacturing techniques. The original estate was redesigned in a harmonious blend of modernity and functionality, meeting contemporary needs without neglecting its historical character. For example, the central light shaft running through all floors serves as a visual highlight and allows more natural light into the building—providing the brightness necessary for watchmakers and jewelers to perform their intricate work. In the inspiring atmosphere of the 1,500 m² workshop, several teams of around fifty people dedicate themselves to the development and crafting of exquisite watch collections that captivate through a unique fusion of craftsmanship, jewelry artistry, and masterful watchmaking. Initially, the components of the Haute Horlogerie movements are produced and decorated, such as through perlage, at the nearby La Chaux-de Fonds manufacture. They are then assembled into finished movements, cased, and tested at the Maison des Métiers d’Art. Three overarching craftsmanship categories are represented at the Maison: the art of fire, metalworking, and composition. “The art of fire” encompasses all enamel techniques, such as painted enamel, cloisonné enamel, champlevé enamel, grisaille enamel, grisaille enamel with gold paste, and plique-à-jour enamel. A wonderful example of metalworking is the ancient goldsmithing technique of Etruscan granulation practiced here, where artisans create gold beads of varying sizes. These beads are then individually placed onto the intricately designed motifs and fused. Enamel granulation combines Etruscan granulation with enameling techniques. The same applies to filigree work, a goldsmithing art where gold or silver threads known as filigree—are interconnected to form intricate motifs. Intarsia involves assembling various materials like wood, straw, or even rose petals into stunning artworks on the dial’s surface. Depending on the motif, up to 400 mosaic components may be placed on the dial.
Carefully restored. The historical core of the farmhouse
The art of metalworking.
The Etruscan granulation is an ancient goldsmithing craft
Craftsmanship.
Haute Joaillerie meets Haute Horlogerie
Tank Américaine Watch. Mini quartz model in white gold with diamonds
These traditional techniques are continuously evolved and supplemented with innovations. Advanced methods such as microfluidics, mechanics, magnetism, and new techniques like 3D printing on gold and laser technology are employed. To foster collaboration between different disciplines, new facilities were recently established to better support an optimal workflow. The Maison des Métiers d’Art also invites some of the world’s best partners and artisans to join fixed teams in specially designed spaces to create highly demanding masterpieces. This collective talent has led to over thirty patents. The Maison des Métiers d’Art collaborates with various training institutions in France and Switzerland specializing in gem setting, jewelry, and watchmaking to ensure the continuity of this unique artisanal institution. From its inception, Cartier has beenknown for its relentless pursuit of beauty and aesthetics, evolving through constant innovation. Six years after its founding in 1847, Louis Cartier expanded his jewelry-making to include fine watchmaking. Since then, the luxury brand has synergetically united both worlds—the finest manifestation of which is the Maison des Métiers d’Art, now celebrating its tenyear milestone.